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At one time, only the wise or the wary anchored their mobile homes. Now look yours over. Evaluate your home’s stance. Uneven settling indicates blocking-up problems and probably poor anchoring. The soil under your home must drain properly. In some locales, this may require a 5—6 inch bed of gravel. The home needs a solid footing either on a concrete pad or on concrete runners. Only after the pad is adequate are you ready for blocking and anchoring.
Support a mobile home on cement-block piers 12 feet apart. Many homes today have signs along the frame indicating blocking points. Obey these when you can. Cement blocks should be stacked so you can fill the holes with mortar, forming a solid column.
Anchors are often embedded in mortar or concrete. But anchors vary. Some eye-bolt anchors fit 4 feet into the ground, extending below the frost line. Eye-bolts might not work for sandy or hardrock areas. Your nearest anchor company can probably advise you on the most effective anchoring methods for your area.
Hurricane straps are another segment of a thorough tie-down system. They reach clear over the top of your home, down the sides, and attach to anchors. Sometimes these over-tt’ie-top straps are secured to the frame and the frame in turn anchored.
Whatever the anchoring method, inspect the anchoring devices every month or two. Watch for loose bolts, rust, or corrosion. When that little wind starts to blow a lot, you’ll be glad you did.

Setting up a schedule of routine maintenance shouldn’t be too difficult. Your mobile home requires seasonal cleaning just like wood- built houses do. Not as much, perhaps, but cleaning it does need.
On that first beautiful day after the long winter, get outside. Wash the exterior down thoroughly with a mild detergent and water. Wash It early in the day to avoid having it wet in direct hot sunlight.
Drag out the big ladder and look the roof over. Any loose or missing screws along the seam lines? Replace them. Clean and paint rusted screw heads. Look for roof damage which might cause leaks. Repair and reseal any scrapes or holes. Clean out drip rails and gutters.
Tighten and replace screws on the sides and ends. Wash the windows. Remove skirting and clean out underneath the home. And don’t forget to clean or change the filters in your air conditioner.
Once your spring cleanup has been taken care of, you can begin to think about your landscaping and other home improvements.

Building standards initiated by the manufactured housing industry assure you of structural quality. A variety of tags and seals adjacent to the door of your home attest that a unit was built in accordance with these standards. The most common, the MHMA/TCA (Mobile Homes Manufacturers Association/Trailer Coach Association) certification indicates the home meets standards set jointly by the American National Standards Institute (ANSI), the National Fire Protective Association (NFPA), the NHMA, and the TCA.
ANSI standards cover body, frame, and superstructure, plus installation of plumbing, heating, and electrical systems. The seal also certifies that electrical wiring in the home complies with the National Electrical Code.
Some homes carry an Underwriters’ Laboratories, Inc. listing label. A manufacturer applies first for approval of the safety of a design for one specific model of home. Then the firm must prove to UL engineers that they have the expertise to build a home in accordance with those UL standards that apply. Once the company and the model are “UL listed,” Underwriters’ Laboratories, Inc. acts as a policing agency. UL engineers periodically test samples of a listed manufacturer’s product to verify that it conforms to UL standards.
The Pittsburgh Testing Laboratory tag appears frequently on mobile homes today. PTL is an independent monitoring agency too. But PTL certification differs from the UL method. For a mobile home to receive a Pittsburgh Testing Laboratory tag, a PTL inspector must examine that individual home in detail. It receives a tag only after it passes this rigid inspection.
These standards and independent auditing services protect you as a mobile-home owner. They simplify maintenance because they assure quality of materials and workmanship. You can safely consider the original parts and materials a dependable guide to replacement or repair. Don’t buy a mobile home that doesn’t meet at least the MHMA/TCA standards and have either UL or PTL certification.

If you have to move your mobile home, caution and care help prevent later repairs. You’ll always need some adjustment and repair after moving your home. However, you or your dealer can limit such work by handling the move properly.
Begin with a qualified and reputable mobile-home mover. Secure a short-term insurance policy to cover your home during the move. The mover should know the state and federal laws governing your move. Make sure you have a valid transport license and registration papers for your home.
Remove the blocking from under the home a few days prior to the move, so it can settle to its moving stance. Inspect running gear, hitch, brakes, lights, and tires. Make needed repairs or replacements before you start.
Pack dishes, lamps, small appliances, pictures, and other loose Items. Carry jewelry and valuable papers with you. Remove everything from upper cabinets and closet shelves. Pots and pans can remain on the floor of the cabinets. Remove clothes from the closets and lay them flat on the beds. Clean out and defrost the refrigerator.
If you have expandable sections, secure them before you arrange the furniture. Pack heaviest furniture in front of the axles, but not at the extreme front of the unit.
Disconnect washer, dryer, and dishwasher. Flush and drain the water heater and toilets. Disconnect water and drain lines. Disconnect gas, electricity, and telephone.
Secure all doors, windows, and large appliances with mounting blocks and strong masking tape. Anchor any ceiling light fixtures that swing. Tape mirrors to prevent shattering.
Check the wheels and tires again. For safe trailering, you need at least 3 inches between the top of the tire and the tire well. If there’s less, adjust or fix the shock absorbers and springs, or start unloading. Your mobile home is not a moving van. Keep within the gross vehicle weight (GVW).

Mobile home maintenance requires only a few basic tools. Your tool kit should include a hammer. Buy a good one, with a balanced steel handle. Choose the weight for whoever will use it most (probably you).
You’ll want two pair of pliers. Regular gas pliers fit a wide variety of uses. To those add a pair of adjustable or Channellock pliers for larger wrenching jobs.
You’ll need a hacksaw, a carpenter’s rule, machine oil, flashlight, electric troublelight, plastic electrical tape, duct tape, a heavy-duty extension cord, a small box of finishing nails, garden hose, neon tester, small paint brush, powdered graphite, paraffin wax, all-purpose cement such as Elmer’s glue, and a selection of screwdrivers:
small, medium, and large regular, two sizes of Phillips, and a clutch- head. A set of hex-nut drivers comes in handy. Occasionally a home may also have square-head screws; if so, buy the special screwdriver that fits them. You need also a five-step ladder, and another that lets you reach the roof.
Computing approximate costs, your mobile home maintenance! repair tool kit should cost around $50.